Wednesday, June 29, 2011

The Art Aids Foundation commissions leading artists, to go on show in Barcelona

  Elmgreen and Dragset

Barcelona, Spain - The ArtAids Foundation has invited nine internationally acclaimed artists who don’t usually work on the subject of AIDS to create site-specific pieces for You Are Not Alone, an exhibition which will be held at the Fundació Joan Miró of Barcelona from 30 June to 16 September. The ArtAids foundation was set up by the Dutch writer and art collector Han Nefkens, owner of the H+F Collection to raise awareness on the HIV epidemic through art projects. “ArtAids is a unique institution in that it sponsors exhibitions that are geared towards a positive transformation of the public’s perception and understanding of the Aids crisis through something as subtle and complex as art. As an art museum, we can’t but wholeheartedly support constructive projects of such nature.” said Rosa Maria Malet, Director of the Fundació Joan Miró about ArtAids.

You Are Not Alone, curated by Hilde Teerlinck, the Belgium former artistic director of the Mies van der Rohe Pavilion of Barcelona, features the innovative approach to the current status of the disease by a total of fourteen contemporary artists. The nine commissions include installations, photographs and sculptures by Elmgreen & Dragset, Deimantas Narkevicius, Latifa Echakhck, Danh Vo, Jorge Orta, Christodoulos Panayioto etc. alongside pieces from the ArtAids collection which comprises pieces by David Goldblat, Otto Berchem, and Juul Hondlus among many other international artists.

The exhibition will tour to MARCO (Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Vigo) in Vigo, Galicia, where it will be on display from October 21, 2011 to late February, 2012.

Boca do Lobo azuleijos cabinet

Hotel: Maison Martin Margiela steps into interior design...

Maison Martin Margiela steps even further into interior design with another collaboration, this time with the Paris-based hotel ‘la Maison Champs-Elysées’. Located within the historical building of the Maison des Centraliens, at the junction of Avenue Montaigne, the Grand Palais and Place de la Concorde, the hotel is slated to relaunch with the designs from Maison Martin Margiela in July 2011.

The fashion house, won the competition to design the historical part of the building, and has therefore applied its fashion philosophy to the interior of the hotel suites, the restaurant, the smoking room, the bar and the reception area.

I look forward to having a look at it myself...

My best of the 2012 Paris - Milan, Spring - Summer Menswear

Dior Homme


Alexander McQueen


Louis Vuitton

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Hermès bracelet ad campaign

Hermès recently launched this ad campaign which I found simple and amazing. It pays tribute to painters such as Gauguin, Ingres, Courbet etc. and magnifies women. Well done!

Tori Amos - Night of Hunters cover revealed

Quote of the week: Giorgio Armani.

"[Miuccia] Prada is "ingenious" for her "irony," he said, "and bad taste that becomes chic..." Giorgio Armani.

Monday, June 27, 2011

New Pop'Set exhibition at the Dray Walk Gallery in London

I’ve always been fascinated by origami, the traditional Japanese art of paper folding without glue or any other substitutes to stick the pieces of papers. Traditional Japanese origami, which has been practiced since the Edo era (1603–1867), has often been less strict about these conventions, sometimes cutting the paper or using non-square shapes to start with. 

Anyway, I remember well the Japanese Pavillion of the 92's Sevilla exhibition which was featuring a lot of origami sculptures... That was so interesting...

This beautiful art form is the subject of an exhibition at the Dray Walk Gallery, Old Truman Brewery in the so-trendy Brick Lane area of London. The show opens on 1st July and will feature the new Pop’Set’ collection – the most active and creative company in the field of paper design - by Arjowiggins Creative Papers, the C-Myk winners (I am sure you remember my previous post about this creative contest?). This show, which will surely attract a lot of creative art-goers will give them the opportunity to discover more fantastic origami pieces by emerging artists. This exhibition is part of the New Blood 2011 International design exhibition organised by DandAD, an organisation which aims at supporting those who work in and around the creative industries.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Walter Van Beirendonck retrospective at the Antwerp Fashion Museum

 Photo: Jean Baptiste Mondino, 1996

In the autumn of 2011, the Antwerp Fashion Museum will present the first large-scale retrospective exhibition of the work of fashion designer Walter Van Beirendonck.

Over three decades, Van Beirendonck has built up an impressive international career. He is the maverick of the Antwerp fashion scene and became primarily known for his colourful designs, his spectacular fashion shows in Paris in the 1990s under the W.&L.T. label, and the critical messages on society he proclaims in his designs. His work combines the most diverse sources of inspiration, ranging from technology, art and pop culture to ethnography.

"Walter Van Beirendonck, dream the world awake"
From 14/09/2011 to 19/02/2012

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Matthew Barney and Björk, Marina Abramović performance

Matthew Barney and Björk, pictures taken during the Marina Abramović performance at the MoMA.

Helmut Newton, Polaroïds, by TASCHEN

Brancusi - Serra exhibition at the Beyeler Foundation

Richard Serra encountered the art of Constantin Brancusi for the first time in 1964-65 – by way of drawings. In Paris on a grant, he visited Brancusi’s reconstructed studio every day and gradually acquainted himself with the underlying principles of his sculpture. Serra was intrigued by the way Brancusi constructed sculptural volumes and his ability to capture three-dimensions by means of highly reduced lineatures. We begin our considerations with this biographical moment and key artistic experience in the hope of facilitating an initial understanding of the works on view. Our basic intention, however, is broader in nature. It seemed to us to be a veritable visual necessity to confront Brancusi’s art, which marked the inception of modern sculpture, with a significant contemporary approach. Astonishing traits in common but also intriguing differences come to light in an immediate experience of the exhibition.

Accordingly Brancusi’s and Serra’s works meet in an open-ended dialogue, while both can also be understood as comprising a concentrated retrospective of the two oeuvres. An exemplary selection of about 40 Brancusi sculptures is juxtaposed with a superb ensemble of 10 sculptures and a range of works on paper by Serra. These reflect the development of his idea of sculpture over the past forty years, in a form never before seen in Switzerland. This holds for Brancusi, too, to whom a retrospective had yet to be devoted in our country.

Divided into thematic groupings of works, the exhibition avoids strict chronology. It is more like an open-ended game that plays out in the museum spaces, with moments when the sculptures meet directly, but also sequences of rooms devoted to one or the other artist, but whose visual experience is mutually conditioned.

Serra recently referred to Brancusi’s art as a “handbook of artistic possibilities” – and it is just this, as a sum of possiblities, that the dialogue in the present exhibition is intended to be understood.

Monday, June 20, 2011

Versace is going through a change

New models, new photographers... "Sometimes you need to renew yourself to work better and to make a little bit of a push." said Donatella and I couldn't agree more.  Oh and she just announced the Versace collaboration with H&M at Milan Menswear Fashion Week. She was wearing one of the dresses she designed for the Swedish giant...

I love this ad, I love the bag... Hopefully it will become a "good" brand again...

Marilyn Monroe's dress

Marilyn Monroe's white dress worn in The Seven Year Itch, sold for a $5.6 million after a 20 minute bidding war during the Hollywood memorabilia auction which included the iconic Michael Jackson's Thriller red jacket.

Futuristic posters by Metric72

Mapplethorpe through the eyes of Almodovar

To coincide with the photo fair, PhotoEspaña 2011, the Madrid-based Elvira Gonzalez Gallery opened on 7th June the first exhibition of American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe in the gallery. Curated ​​by Pedro Almodovar, the show includes 28 photographs of different periods ranging from 1976 to 1989. It is open to the public until 22nd July.

Almodóvar's gaze focuss mainly on the human body and the geometry of space around the body shape. Like Mapplethorpe himself, the filmmaker looks at the flower compositions, the nudes and still lifes as the highest expression of the concept of beauty. "Mapplethorpe's photography features the visual intensity of a painting..
." Almodovar said about Patti Smith's friend.

Friday, June 17, 2011

Art is Fashion is Art is... my latest article for Vernissage Magazine


Fashion has always turned to the arts for inspiration, while the arts have always loved the fashion world for its avant-gardism. But who benefits the most from this relationship?

The finale of Louis Vuitton’s Spring / Summer 2008 collection by Marc Jacobs featured Richard Prince-inspired nurses cat walking with bags displaying sarcastic sentences from Prince’s trademark. Marc Jacobs’s stunt is still considered as a crucial moment for the fashion and art worlds as it blurred further the frontier between the two disciplines. The collection echoes that of Yves Saint Laurent who in 1965 drew inspiration from Mondrian’s minimalism and designed a dress which is in every fashion enthusiast’s mind. Both have always been interconnected. Shumon Basar, Writer and Chair of the Global Art Forum at the Middle Eastern art fair Art Dubai, who, this year, presented a series of talks and presentations entitled “Fascination: When Art Met Fashion” said about this relationship: “There are many relationships, but perhaps the most potent, and recurrent, are that of mutual admiration and envy. Some areas of the contemporary art-world envy the fashion world's general air of effortless glamour (see Artforum's web-blog 'Scene & Herd': it's the fashion-socialites' sport of people and outfit spotting applied to art world. Art is what happens behind the champagne and expensive haircuts). Conversely the fashion world enjoys brushing up with the so-called 'intelligence' of contemporary art. It's a different kind of glamour. The thing that often glues the two worlds together is rich people who enjoy dipping into both.”

The examples of fashion designers who took inspiration from the arts for their collections are numerous: whether it’s Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Spring / Summer 2010 Haute Couture collection inspired by the Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, or Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s everlasting love for pop art – he collaborated in the 80’s with the artists Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat and gave a tribute to Leonardo da Vinci and Ingres in his 1992’s collection.  John Galliano’s 1999 Spring / Summer ready-to-wear Dior collection featured his interpretation of the “Black square” painting by Malevich, and more recently Oscar de la Renta illustrated his latest 2012 Resort collection with Picasso-inspired patchworks. The list of creative collaborations or “artistic borrowings” is long: Sergio Rossi designer Francesco Russo used 1970’s conceptual artist Claude Viallat’s paintings for his latest boots and bags collection; Rochas designer Marco Zanini visited his mother’s hometown in Sweden to take inspiration from the work of local artist Slotts Barbro; Hermès collaborated in 2011 with French artist Daniel Buren who used his photo archive to create 365 striking patterns for scarves; Shoemaker Bally, who commissions an artist each year to produce capsule collections, is working with Swiss artist Philippe Decrauzat this year; in April 2011 Nicholas Kirkwood released a shoe collection inspired by Keith Haring’s comics; the artist Damien Hirst’s partner Maia Forman, a fashion designer in her own rights, turned to Jim Lambie for her latest collection following previous collaborations with contemporary artists Mat Collishaw and Carsten Höller. There was the 'Double Club' by artist Carsten Hoeller and commissioned by Fondazione Prada. It was a schizophrenic bar/club/restaurant in London that for 6 months and became a much loved hang-out for the well heeled from both the fashion and art worlds. A dual-regional food menu was provided by Sketch. The Double Club broke out of the gallery and became an actual place. The other way around, fashion houses have been asking artists and film-makers to produce short films or adverts. There's been Missoni and Kenneth Anger, Gucci and Chris Cunningham, and before that, they worked with David Lynch.” adds Shumon Basar. 


As a result of this mix of disciplines, both figures - of fashion designer and contemporary artist - are blurred. Most of the biggest fashion designers have attended art schools by the way: Christian Lacroix attended L’Ecole du Louvre in Paris, the Dutch duo Viktor&Rolf graduated from the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design in The Netherlands, Hussein Chalayan or Alexander McQueen both attended the Central St Martins College of Art and Design of London, probably the best art school in the world. These fashion designers have always mastered the mix between fashion and art, have often been described as contemporary artists and all had solo-shows in Museums: Christian Lacroix enjoyed a retrospective at the Réattu Museum of Art in the French city where he was born, Arles, Viktor&Rolf’s works were exhibited at the Barbican Gallery of London in 2008, Hussein Chalayan’s at the Design Museum of London in 2009 and Alexander McQueen at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, in New York in 2011. Interestingly, US Vogue Editor Anna Wintour, has been promoted from honorary member to elective trustee making her a voting member of the board of the MET. This recognizes the fundraising effort she accomplished for the museum for years. Coming up is Marc Jacobs retrospective at Le Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, which will look at the designer's work for Louis Vuitton since he took over the creative reigns in 1999. This exhibition is said to open in 2012.  

 Alexander McQueen at the MET

Fashion designers often use the multiple ways of expressions of a contemporary artist in order to increase the means to sell or present their collections resulting in a translation from the fashion designer posture to being considered by experts as artists themselves: Karl Lagerfeld is a protean designer who handles the fashion and interior design of fashion houses Chanel and Fendi as well as the advertising campaigns of these brands. He’s a photographer in his own right and had several gallery shows. Another example includes the former Dior Homme Artistic Director Hedi Slimane who converted into a famous photographer. 

 Karl Lagerfeld and Hedi Slimane

Throughout the world, fashion is increasingly mixed with the museum world and the number of fashion exhibitions in art museums is inevitably growing, proving once again that fashion and art are inevitably merging into one discipline one would call “art and craft”: "Cubism and Fashion" at the Metropolitan Museum in New York in 1999, "L´Homme Paré" at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2005, “Chanel”, a retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum in New York in 2005, "New York Fashion Now " and "The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957” at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London in 2007 are a few examples.

Both fashion designers and artists yearn for freedom of expression but the big difference is that fashion designers often can’t step away from the brand they represent and from the brief their marketing teams impose on them. A brief that comes from market research companies who pre-empt what the consumers want.  Artists therefore seem to enjoy more freedom of expression. In 2011, Nadia Plesner, Danish artist was taken to court for copyright infringement by Louis Vuitton for the image of an emaciated child holding one of their distinctive patterned handbags in her painting called "Darfurnica". This bag was initially commissioned to the Japanese artist Takashi Murakami who re-interpreted the famous LV monogram. A European court ruled in favour of Plesner stating that "the freedom of expression through her work outweighs the protection of property of Vuitton. The brand has been ordered to pay for the artist's legal costs. This also indicates that however nourishing fashion can be for the contemporary artist, this inspiration is often used to mock it. In 1990, the French artist Sylvie Fleury exhibited at the Lausanne-based Rivolta Gallery bronze-made Chanel, Gucci, Kenzo etc. bags. Her work was meant to focus on the concept of a bag as an object, rather than the luxury image conveyed by it. Ironically in 2006 Marc Jacobs reinterpreted these artworks by designing a “Keepall model”, a metallic grey bag  directly inspired by Fleury’s work.

 Sylvie Fleury - Hermès bag

Louis Vuitton

More than any other fashion houses, Louis Vuitton has always pioneered in promoting the thriving relationship between art and fashion, as it soon understood the positive marketing effects it could have on its business strategy. Fashion can’t be disassociated from the inherent commercial needs. In an interview in the 2011 March / April issue of the art magazine Flash International, Yves Carcelle, CEO of Louis Vuitton explains that “the connection with contemporary art dates back to Louis Vuitton himself, who was a personal friend of Claude Monet. This interaction with artists flourished again in the 80’s, when the company started working with artists such as César, Sol Le Witt and Olivier Debré. When Marc Jacobs joined the house as artistic director in 1997, his own passion for contemporary art turned this into an even greater source of inspiration for the house, giving rise to the now-iconic collaborations with the late Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami, and Richard Prince” as stated before. Other artists such as Olafur Eliasson, Alyson Shotz, Zhan Wang, Michael Lin, Steven Shearer and Xavier Veilhan have created installations for display in the House’s windows.” Last year, the company launched a three-year long support programme for emerging artists in conjunction with five leading London art institutions. The Louis Vuitton Foundation for Creation is scheduled to open in 2013 in Paris featuring temporary exhibitions alongside the permanent collection. And it’s not the only Fashion Foundation which supports the arts: the Cartier Foundation, the Hermès Galleries, the Prada Foundation are other examples which prove that beyond fashion, the luxury sector significantly supports the arts and the artists, often through sponsoring.  And as a matter of fact, this is not for free but rather for marketing, political or tax reduction purposes. Shumon Basaar adds: I find Louis Vuitton's teaming up with Murakami and Richard Prince too crudely about the brand-value of those artists, even though commercially, they've been extremely successful luxury products.”


Answering the question of which sector benefits more than the other is then rather difficult and probably impossible to find. At least it’s not about to end tomorrow. Asked to conclude about it, Shumon Basar confirms: “it’s hard to measure. But one practical benefit has been the establishment of art-centres by fashion houses, such as Cartier in Paris, Prada in Milan and Hermès in Tokyo. They've often sought to help produce new works, thus act as commissioners. More prosaically, fashion houses often sponsor major art exhibitions - and this counts for something in an age where public funding diminishes or is negligible and private money is crucial. Of course, everyone 'benefits' from fashion hosted parties.”
Also found here:

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Visionaire Sixty, guest edited by the talented Riccardo Tisci

Dusan Reljin

Mario Sorrenti


Beth Ditto

LONDON, perhaps the most multicultural city in the world: a cutting-edge canvas for cool youth culture - a mélange of fresh exciting music and innovative fashion, film and art. In the summertime, the capital’s inherent artistic sensibility becomes ever more alive and apparent. Every young (and old) Londoner and affiliated Londoner loves a party, a festival, especially one which features a cameo from everyone’s favourite and most coveted headliner – the sun. Each year Victoria Park, the People’s Park, provides a happy home to LOVEBOX – one huge three day party which embraces, celebrates and exemplifies the very essence, spirit and diversity of our capital.

Jessie J

This year, Groove Armada’s Tom & Andy really excel themselves in their musical curation, succinctly catering for every cool cat in town – Bang the Box Friday sees French electronic Edbanger label showcasing SebAstian & Uffie, alongside dubstep darling Skream sharing stages with a dash of Ms Dyamite. Saturday’s zeitgeist-defining playlist of Ziggy Marley, Snoop and Warren G needs no introduction. The Drums and Lykke Li will also be padding the field, culminating in a raucous crescendo with Sunday’s stiletto-shaped sounds courtesy of Scissor Sisters, Blondie and Ms Ditto, Robyn, Kelis, Jodie Harsh & Horse Meat Disco.

Heart music and London soul? Cupid’s arrow is pointing you directly towards Lovebox.
Rachel Warrilow.

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Tom Ford to launch his make up collection

This year, Tom Ford will launch a new make-up line. The ad campaign accompanying this collection will feature Lara Stone hugged by the man himself.

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Burberry Prorsum 2012 bag

This bag is beautiful !

MoMA's Plywood exhibition: Material, Process, Form

“Plywood,” explained Popular Science in 1948, “is a layercake of lumber and glue.” In the history of design, plywood is also an important modern material that has given 20th-century designers of everyday objects, furniture, and even architecture greater flexibility in shaping modern forms at an industrial scale. This installation features examples, drawn from MoMA's collection, of modern designs that take advantage of the formal and aesthetic possibilities offered by plywood, from around 1930 through the 1950s. Archival photographs illuminate the process of design and manufacture in plywood. Iconic furniture by Alvar Aalto, Charles and Ray Eames, Eero Saarinen, and Arne Jacobsen appear alongside organic platters by Tapio Wirkkala (1951), Sori Yanagi’s Butterfly Stool (1956), an architectural model for a prefabricated house by Marcel Breuer (1943), and experimental designs for plywood in the aeronautics industry.

Organized by Juliet Kinchin, Curator, and Aidan O’Connor, Curatorial Assistant, Department of Architecture and Design.

Vanquish rocks

I love this Vanquish shirt (Japanese label) which reminds me of a JC/DC sweater I own... Do you know which one I am talking about?

YSL Spring Summer 2011 Manifesto

Maripol 80's NY pictures: Madonna

The Balenciaga museum opens on 10th June in the designer's hometown

"If Dior is the Watteau of couture - full of nuances, smart, sensitive and timeless, then Balenciaga is the Picasso of fashion because, like the painter, and he's got a deep respect for the tradition and a classic style which underlines all his experiments with mondernity."

It's with these words that Cecil Beaton defined in" The Glass of Fashion" (1954) the style of one of the great masters of couture of the first half of the 20th century.

And the master is now getting his own museum in  his hometown, Getaria, Spain, which will open on 10 June, featuring a selection of 90 pieces and promoting the importance of the designer's work for couture.

The museum space comprises the historic Palace Aldamar, a monumental building of 19th century and summer residence of the Marquis de Casa Torres, and an extension, designed by the architects AV62.

More info on:

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